Kawagoe is off the beaten path. I found it because I heard we should find some older towns/neighborhoods to explore, and when we were planning our Tokyo trip I searched for some near Tokyo. Kawagoe seemed like a good choice, and it certainly was. We arrived later in the day, but if we had known how early stuff closed might have come a bit earlier to see the temple and castle ruins. But just walking the streets, browsing stores, and exploring a museum made it worth the trip!
I turned around to find shopkeepers playing peekaboo with S.
The air always feels heavy to me in temples and shrines, but I don’t think it’s the incense. I think it’s the sad reality of how lost so many are.